Serving it Up Korean-Style

This weekend marked the beginning of my Korean culinary experiments! After finishing up the marathon shopping trip with Terry on Saturday, I returned home with MASSIVE hunger pangs! My bare cabinets were bare no longer, and it was time to silence the hungry beast in my belly. So what's a girl to cook??
I decided to take Terry's suggestions and cook up some rice with barley and Korean black beans. Following Korean cooking protocol, I rinsed and drained the grains and beans three times in tap water, then left them to soak for 1/2 hour. I drained them once more, and then loaded everything into my studio-size rice cooker.
The next trick was figuring out how much water to add to the pot. Harrison, nice guy that he is, had stopped by my apartment yesterday to pump up my bike tires and introduce me to the wonders of the rice cooker (seriously, is he too good to be true, or what?). He showed me the age-old Korean measuring technique that his mother used, and that his wife uses still today. No measuring cups needed. OK folks at home, give this a try next time you're making rice in a cooker. Cup your hand over the rice so that your fingertips and the palm of your hand rest on the top of the rice. Now fill the pot with water utnil your knuckles are almost submerged with water. That's it. I'm here, in part, to glean the secrets of ancient wisdom, right? So be it. I cupped the rice with my palm, filled the pot just so, popped down the lid, and let the machine take over.

Meanwhile, I scoured my painstakingly collected Korean recipe "box" (I am in love with the computerized recipe database Big Oven... check it out at http://www.bigoven.com/) to find some general guideline for making a soybean-based soup. With Terry, I had purchased Korean-style miso (soybean paste, called "denjang" in Korean), as well as garlic, Korean chives (think really, really big spring onions), tofu, "gochujang" (a spicy paste made of red peppers), and enoki mushrooms. A few minutes later, the rice cooker was steaming itself into a frenzy, and the fragrance of onion and mushrooms permeated my tiny apartment.
I quickly set the table, and prepared the final ingredient, chopped seaweed, which at Harrison's suggestion, I would eat atop my rice bowl. I spooned everything into little round bowls and, after documenting the big moment :), took a big spoon of my "guk" (soup)... The verdict... a little spicy, with an otherwise mild flavor... and the mushrooms... delicious! And the barley rice with black beans and seaweed? The taste was pleasant, the seaweed added just the right balance of flavor to the very subtle grains. I had to adapt a bit to the purplish hue that the rice took on from the black beans, but in all, I felt quite pleased with myself :) Not bad for my first Korean cooking adventure! Bon appetit!

Stocking the Pantry!

What an adventure I had today!! I spent several hours at Lotte Mart, Seosan's biggest department store, where I had my first lesson in Korean grocery shopping. Fortunately, I had done a little homework before heading out, or I would have been in some serious hot water. Those of you who know me, know what a passion -- verging on obsession -- I have with all this ethnic, cultural, international. So it shouldn't come as any surprise to you that while I'm here in Korea, I fully intend to do a lot of things Korean-style. Bloom where you're planted, isn't that right? To my mind, a fully authentic experience, one that rings true to my reasons for coming here in the first place, does not revolve around dinners of pizza, Kentucky Fried Chicken, or spaghetti. (Actually, all of the above are right here in town, for those times, which I'm sure will happen, when I'm craving something really Western).
For a while now, though, I've immersed myself in a love and fascination of Eastern cultures, philosophies, religions, medicines, and of course, cuisine. That love is one of the over-arching reasons I chose to come to Korea. I happen to believe that there is a lot of wisdom passed down from generation to generation in these cultures that have been in existence since ancient times. And I think it would be a terrible waste if I were not to really try to integrate and assimilate as much as I can, this knowledge. So with that rather philosophical opening, I give you ... My First Korean Shopping List!
I thought it might be interesting for some of you back home to take a look at what a typical trip to the market yields here in Korea. Also, the prices are listed in Won, as well as USD, which is also kind of interesting (or is that just the analyst in me coming out? Thanks, Dad, I've always attributed my number-crunching interest to you!!)
₩8,780 $8.51 dried small anchovies, 900g (for using to flavor soups)
₩4,130 $4.00 rice vinegar
₩2,430 $2.36 apple vinegar
₩1,420 $1.38 buckwheat noodles (Japanese style)
₩1,030 $1.00 wheat noodles (Korean style)
₩1,580 $1.53 black bean paste chunjang
₩2,130 $2.06 roasted sesame seeds
₩3,860 $3.74 rice paper wrappers (Vietnamese style, for spring rolls)
₩1,868 $1.81 yellow miso paste (Korean style, made of soybeans)
₩2,740 $2.66 red pepper paste
₩3,866 $3.75 soy sauce (regular)
₩4,320 $4.19 soy sauce (Korean style, for making soups)
₩7,632 $7.40 sesame oil
₩7,930 $7.69 dried black beans (Korean style, for cooking with rice)
₩15,980 $15.49 ground soybean + grain health drink
₩1,300 $1.26 sea salt
₩3,800 $3.68 barley (dried, for cooking with rice)
₩1,630 $1.58 seaweed paper (for chopping into cooked rice)
₩1,920 $1.86 Nori sheets (seaweed for rolling rice/kimbap)
₩1,950 $1.91 oyster sauce (Chinese style)
₩2,740 $2.66 soy milk (1 quart)
₩1,050 $1.02 soybean curd (tofu)
₩3,680 $3.57 eggs (1 dozen)
₩1,160 $1.12 bananas (5 little bananas, ~$.022/ea)
₩4,333 $4.20 sweet potatoes (4 medium, $1.05/ea)
₩2,115 $2.05 carrots (4 HUGE!)
₩2,980 $2.89 fresh pineapple
₩1,760 $1.71 bean sprouts
₩2,123 $2.06 tomatoes (2 med, ~$1.03/ea)
₩830 $0.80 fresh garlic cloves (about 12)
₩980 $0.95 Korean chives (1 massive bunch)
₩860 $0.83 fresh ginger
₩650 $0.62 baking soda
Who knew, for instance, that there was a special kind of soy sauce just for making soup? Or that there were so many different varieties of sea plants / seaweed? I'm already missing the abundance of fresh fruit I enjoyed at home... prices for fruits here are steep, and with the exception of this week's pineapple sale and little bananas (which are very affordable), I had to pass them up :(Stay tuned for my next post, in which I'll be trying to turn some of these ingredients into the solution to my already-growling stomach!!

Feels Like Home to Me...

It's a good feeling to have my bags unpacked, to look around this itty bitty living space and see that it's starting to resemble something I could call a home. I've rearranged the furniture a few more times (oh no, my inner perfectionist has emerged again!), and I think I've finally found something that works for me.
I've always more or less prided myself on being a person who is content with simplicity. I count it as a pretty big notch on my belt that I managed to live out of one big backpack for five months while tramping around Europe and Morocco a while back. So why has it been somewhat mind-bending to wrap my head around the fact that this little one-room apartment is where it all happens for me? I'm coaching myself through this one, a little at a time. I think once I get some of the outdoors in -- dress up the place with some splashes of color, a potted plant here, maybe an orchid spray there, green, green, everywhere -- it'll feel more like home.
I'm pretty satisfied with the packing choices I made -- it looks like I brought just enough clothing to fill my wardrobe, even a few hangers left over. And the books fill out my desk shelves nicely. All of my spices fit in the freezer (where hopefully, they'll stay fresh for quite some time). And my toiletries are happily sitting on the cabinet shelves inside my little icebox of a bathroom. And I really haven't come across anything yet while unpacking that reeks of impracticality.
I found a huge, glass bowl stashed under the gas range earlier today, while I was cleaning out remnants left behind by the previosu tenant. I got it out and turned it over and over, trying to figure out what it was... much too large for a serving bowl... a punch bowl? (here in Korea? come on!)... It took me a while to realize it was a FISH bowl. I'm now seriously pondering the idea of getting a pet fish (or two?) to keep me company while I'm here. I kind of like the idea of a tranquil little creature to share my home with.... Any name suggestions, anyone?

Time to Move On...

I'm savoring my last hour here in the spacious apartment where I've stayed with my host family for almost a week now. I'll miss this view from their 7th floor balcony where I am sitting right now, enjoying the fresh morning air and the city scene buzzing to life below me.
I'll miss, as well, the delicious meals that my host mother has cooked for me every day since I arrived.
Yesterday's meal was my favorite, some kind of clear, glossy noodles which Aisha explained were made of sweet potato, mixed with red pepper strips, crushed sesame seeds, and several varieties of mushrooms, most of which I didn't recognize. I'm hoping that I can visit my "family" again, and perhaps exchange some cooking lessons -- Eastern for Western -- with the chef of the house :)

Feng Shui and Logistics of Living in Korea

A vicious rain ensued this morning as I walked from Koaroo Apartments (where my host family lives) to the academy. The compact umbrella that Harrison had given me the day before rattled and buckled under the wind as I pressed northward up the road. By the time I arrived, just ten minutes later, my pants legs and shoes were sopping, and I gratefully took cover under the steel awning as I waited for Maggie and Tahira to meet me. Minutes later, two umbrellas emerged around the corner, and I was greeted by two familiar faces. The girls were off to do a little last-minute shopping before Maggie left for the U.S. in the morning. I, on the other hand, had other plans... I was about to receive the set of keys for my apartment and the school, and see my new home for the first time!
I excitedly walked up the hill and turned the corner to the row of boxy, concrete buildings lining the road. You wouldn't guess by looking that this is any more than a communist compound... it's not exactly aesthetic. Most Korean buildings, I've noticed, are (1) boxy and (2) concrete. I stepped inside, turned the key in the lock, and slowly pulled open the steel door. I was prepared for a bit of a mess (the apartment had just been re-wallpapered), and I was prepared for "small"... but I felt my nose wrinkling up as I scanned my new living space (or should I say, lack thereof)? All of the furniture had been pushed into the middle of the room in a hodgepodge of cords, tables, and other odds and ends. I felt my heart sink a little. This was... my new home?
Well, as I usually do when I sense chaos and disorder, my inner Zen kicked in and I found myself sizing up the wardrobe, desk, and bedframe for configuration possibilities. I rolled up my sleeves and started pushing furniture all over the place, stepping back every few minutes to get a sense of the feng shui vibe. I was just in the middle of my little renovation project when Harrison stopped by to give me a "tour," as he called it, of how to "survive" in my apartment. Necessary stuff, you know, like turning on/off the gas line for the stove, turning on/off the hot water line for laundry, using the washing machine, adjusting the thermostat, and turning on the A/C, fan, TV, and satellite. You'd think it would all be more or less self-explanatory, but trust me, at this point in time, Korean is more or less heiroglyphics to me! (Maybe you can see in the picture, Harrison labeled the remote controls me!)
Even every-day stuff like what to do with the garbage is a bit different. You use a special kind of green bag for refuse, recycled shopping bags for recylable paper and plastics, and a little plastic bucket for any food waste. Koreans are big into recycling, which is great... it's a personal weakness of mine not to care more about sorting out my trash. So I guess I'll get some practice while I'm here. Mom, that's gotta make you happy :)By the time I left the apartment, I was feeling much better about the state of affairs of my apartment, though still a bit shell-shocked about the small space. (Measurements I took later confirmed that the room is 10 x 16 feet, which is not exactly spacious for a bedroom + kitchen + living room + entertainment area... yikes!). Tomorrow is "moving day" -- Harrison and I will bring all my luggage here from my host family's place, and I'll finally begin settling in!

To Market, to Market!

I got a free tour of Seosan today, lucky me... OK, actually boss boss, Harrison, took me on a short ride around town today, after the 12:00 staff meeting. Although I'm still staying with my host family for a few more days, I've been anxious to start getting my bearings, learn a few essentials -- namely, where to get money and food.We started with a drive past my apartment (which is literally a 3-minute walk from the school, very convenient, and just opposite a small corner market selling a few groceries). A quick right turn took us to a hill, and after a quick up, over and down, we crossed a busy road and turned right again to reach the one of Seosan's main drags.Just near the corner is Seosan-mart where I will, I suppose, do most of my grocery shopping. Lined along both sides of this road, which leads to a 6-spoke traffic circle (and the point through which all traffic entering Seosan must
navigate) are myriad shops and stores, including an organic foods market, a stationery shop, the post office, and the bank. We quickly walked through several of the shops, and managed to grab a quick bite to eat at the Paris Bakery (one of two French-named bakery chains in town) -- a yeast bread sprinkled with chunks of sweet potato and a bottle of chilled soya milk.As we walked back towards the car, Harrison and I stopped at Seosan's local market, which was, for me, the most exciting. Gigantic, colorful umbrellas formed a canopy of shade above the dozens of vendors ready to make a sale.
Women sat or squatted alongside bulging baskets of leafy greens and exotic-looking fruits. This is the place to buy fruits and vegetables, Harrison informed me, as the prices are best, and everything is locally grown and very fresh. I felt dozens of eyes boring into me, a foreign woman who no doubt looked very out of place in this microcosm of traditional Korea. The next section of the market was lively -- tank after tank of live fish, octopus, crab -- you name it, still swimming, crawling, and moving about. We made a U-turn at that point, as it was time to head back to school for classes. I'm looking forward soon to taking another trip to the local market... but perhaps first, I should learn at least a few words of Korean... haggling for a good price is the name of the game in a market like this!

Happy Birthday to Me!

Staying with a host family has its advantages. (1) High-quality accommodations. (2) Special-guest status and treatment.(3) Fabulous, home-cooked food. On the flip side, the language barrier is anything but slight, and there's really not a cryin' thing to do in a stranger's house when you happen to wake up five hours before the rest of the family. My eyes opened suddenly at 3:22 AM this morning. I was wide awake despite the thick blanket of night which still covered the city. No problem, I thought, I'll just shut my eyes tight and head back to dreamland until the sun comes up. Ten, twenty, thirty minutes later, I was forced to reconsider. Jet lag, I've decided, is an evil, evil thing. A thirteen-hour time zone shift from Eastern Standard Time to whatever it is they call this zone that covers Korea and Japan, is, as I can first-handedly attest, no small thing.
After accepting that sleep was not in the cards for me, I attempted to entertain myself for the next several hours with what little options I had at my disposal. I nosed through another chapter of the book I'd been reading since my arrival. I picked over my duffle bags (which, I have decided, are under no circumstances going to be able to zip shut when it's time to move over to my new apartment on Thursday... how I ever managed to stuff them as full as I did before leaving the US I'll never know... oh wait, that's right, I had expert military assistance with that special operation, thanks Michael!), looking for a hair clip, my lip gloss, a few odds and ends I had been hoping to coming across since arriving, yet hadn't. And then, I literally wore my Palm TX battery down to nothing playing round after round of solitaire. Ugh.
By 9:30, no one in the house was stirring. I know, because I had made the rounds several times, tiptoeing across the wood-paneled floors, peering out the balcony windows at signs of life in the city, helping myself to a glass of water, shrugging at the silence, tiptoeing back to my room again. Wouldn't you know, a short time later, exhaustion hit me, and I melted back into my pillow.
When I awoke, it was time to get showered and cleaned up for my noon staff meeting. It wasn't until I was half-covered with soap lather that it hit me -- today was my birthday. Usually, I rather relish the thought of people making a scene
about my big day. Helium balloons. Phonecalls from far-flung friends. That moment during dinner at your favorite restaurant when the waitstaff serenades you with the birthday song while perfect strangers look on. I couldn't really care about the number of candles on my cake, and I've never understood people that would just assume hide their birthday from the world, kick it under the carpet and hope it goes by unnoticed. But today, as I rinse the suds down the drain, it dawned on me that today would actually be one of those. And I shrugged in acceptance, or defeat, I'm not sure which.
So imagine my surprise when Harrison popped into the staff meeting a little while later with a billowy-white frosted
birthday cake! If this is any indication, my suspicions about Harrison are true -- he is a genuinely kind and considerate being, who does things for other people just because he's a nice guy. Being that he's also my boss, I'm feeling particularly happy about that. So Terry, Christine, Tahira, Maggie, and Harrison sang the birthday song to me, and then we devoured the cake!

The rest of the day was a blur... I managed to shadow Maggie on several of her (soon to be my) classes -- eight students per session, every 40 minutes from 2:30 ~ 8:20 PM. I remember my first day in Taiwan, meeting the children I was about to teach, and wondering how I would ever learn their names -- they all seemed identical, dark hair, dark eyes, same even skin tone. It took me a while to focus in on their individual features to really be able to tell them all apart. It's funny, but looking into the faces of my new students, I didn't feel the same. Despite the sheer number of names to learn (I have about 110 students!), I could already see their personalities and uniqueness. Or maybe I'm just delusional.
I actually managed to leave school a bit early today, went back to my host family's house, filled my tummy with some delicious Korean-style potato curry and rice, and fell asleep by 7:00 PM!! My hard-core party days are apparently over (haha).